Fashion Photography
Examples of photography focusing on the fashion element of the subject first became apparent in the early to mid 19th century. However, the gradual devlopment in printing such as halftone printing allowed photography to become much more accessible to working-class people. Fashion within the media devloped to become a form of mass media; fashion magazines become increasingly popular due to early photographers such as Edward Steichen and Cecil Beaton.
The 1960's are often viewed as the years in which the fashion industry truly boomed; a plethora of culture associated with the 'revolutionary' period linked music, politics and fashion. Models started to become influential figures; role models to many young people. Style had evolved to become a form of expression - the public began to view their appearance as a reflection of their character.
The fashion industry has always been set aside as unique. Although it is a form of art, there is never neccessarily a direction in which it seems to be flowing. This means that are never any boundaries, examples or guidelines to follow. Anna Wintour, possibly fashions most significant figure, stated 'Fashion is not beautiful, neither is it ugly. Why should it be either? Fashion is Fashion'.
Wintour is Editor-In-Chief of Vogue magazine, and has driven the magazine to prestige since 1988. By her side is Grace Toddington; Creative Director of the magazine. Despite working together for more than 20 years, their direct rivalry has been publicised almost as much as their success. It is relevant to note that their relationship highlights the aggressive nature of the fashion industry, often elements of creativity must be sacrificed in order to ensure the magazine commercially prospers.
English born John Rankin Waddell or 'Rankin' is a highly respected and influential figure in both the fashion and portraiture industries. Following his education in the London College of Printing he, and close friend Jefferson Hack devised and published their own magazine named 'Dazed & Confused' that covered music, film, fashion, art and literature. Since that point in 1999, Rankin developed an impressively solid portfolio of work, fronting world-reknowned campaigns with companies such as Nike, Coca-Cola, BMW and Dove. Additionally, his subjects have included Kate Moss, Madonna, The Rolling Stones and even Queen Elizabeth II. Rankin's contributions are highly significant as he has worked in music, film, portraiture and fashion photography - to be talented in all of those areas is rare.
The gradual evolution of photographic technology and the introduction of photoshop has created new areas of dispute concerning the manipulation of photographs. Firstly, it is important to note the difference between the portrayal of the body within portraiture and within fashion. The main outlining contrast between artistic expression in Portraiture and Fashion is that overall Portraiture is aiming to create an image of the subject, whereas fashion tends to use to the subject as a canvas for everything around it. In depth, this means that portraiture uses clothing, make up, hair etc to emphasise the emotion around the subject they are trying to create. Inversely, Fashion uses the subject almost as a mannequin to demonstrate the colours, textures and patterns that make up the foundation of their creativity.
From this point made previously, it is clear that there is a divide between photographers that agree with photo manipulation, and those who do not. Overall, I believe that the availability of modern editing techniques is not a bad thing. If technology allows an efficient and simple way of correcting mistakes within your work then so be it.
However, elements of controversy become apparent when magazines such as Vogue and Vanity Fair use photo manipulation to an extremity in order to alter the appearance of a model people begin to question what is and isn't 'ethical'. Many are outraged by the fact that models are altered to made to look thinner, taller and have blemishes eliminated. Fashion purists preach that it is a false representation on fashion and is also a bad example for youth.
Many fashion magazines have been slated for their choices within published items. There is a distinctive line between alterations to the light, colour and contrast of a photo compared to drastic changes in a person's appearance. In opposition to this, Dove body care's 'Real Beauty' campaign fronts strong opinions that their models are 'real' women that truly reflect the body of the everyday woman. This received a a great response from the public, following a study that showed only 2% of Woman worldwide considered themselves as 'beautiful'. Generally people believed that it was a great approach towards fashion; an attempt to boost the self-esteem of women worldwide in order to make high fashion more 'approachable'.
Conclusively I believe it is fair to state that the fashion industry is a diverse mixture of culture, art and business. I believe that it is these opposing binaries that drive the industry in a forwards direction. However, the balance of these two elements is the most crucial part towards the success of a company.
